It totally depends on where you are located and who you hire. In most cases the installation labor has no relation to the cost of the window so you can't just figure it to be 50% their cost. For me a half decent handyman is $18 an hour while a good/professional handyman and helper are $50 an hour.
What you described was common in that era. You lift the window until the spring-loaded pins snap into the holes in the jamb. Pull both pins out at the same time and raise up to the next set of holes or to lower the window closed.
This I'd like to see a picture of! You aren't talking about a window and a storm window are you? I guess it could be a triple or quad hung window, but I think those are relatively new. A 2 hole? Uhhh, I think you are in for a visit to a glass shop. Isn't the glass all fractured around the hole as well? I can't think of anything that would last for more than a few weeks.
You can try a glass shop and ask for Harvey replacement windows. Give them the size whether it's rough opening or window size and they will order them for you.They are a decent window,they have been around for a while so getting replacement parts will be easy,(if you ever need them), and they are local.
The knock I hear against Andersen is cost, not quality. Personally, I like Marvin windows but I know people happy with Pella as well.
Here is a picture of the window. Let me know if it didn't come through. Thanks.
Just Bill, So what about someone like Anderson or Pela? Or is that what you mean by big box?
How to install replacement vinyl windows If you have standard double hung wood windows First, I�m assuming you have read my �how to measure � and have your windows ready to go in. 1.Remove the storm windows. The wood strip or ledge they were screwed to is the �storm stop�. Usually a strip of wood about � x �� that extends back under the exterior moulding. In addition to giving a place to mount a storm window, it also serves as the stop for the outer most sash, the upper one. 2.You can either remove the storm stop with a wood chisel and take the sashes out to the outside�..which I do IF the inside is painted up and I don�t want to disturb it�..or you can remove the inside stop ( the one that holds the lower sash in place as it slides up and down). Don�t take off the top outside stop. Not necessary. If the inside stop is stained and will come off easy, go that route. Do take off the top inside stop�..necessary�but save them for reinstall. 3.If you have fairly �modern� windows with the aluminum tracks, just raise both sashes to the top, slip a bar or hammer claw in behind the track and fold it inward�..usually couple staples holding it, then grab both sashes together and jerk in the direction you took the stop out. The whole mess will come right out in your hands, be ready. People put deadbolts on their doors and 4 little staples hold the windows in�..ahahahahahahahaha 4.If you have the older rope and pulley type window, after taking one of the stops out, cut the sash cords on the first sash( boom/boom�those were the counterweights falling back in their cavity) and take out the sash. Then take out �parting stop��..a 3/4x1/2� strip set in a dado ( groove) in the side jamb. Probably painted all to whizzz, but pry with a small chisel or screwdriver and it will pop out. Then you can cut the cords to the other sash and take it out. 5.On both, there is a parting stop at the top of the window�remove it too or the new window won�t go in place. 6.There is a type of wood double hung I call �pop and go� windows. They used a spring loaded aluminum strip on one side to put pressure against the sash as the method to hold it in place. All you do to get those out is grab the sash, jerk toward the spring loaded side ( usually the left side from inside looking out) and the sashes will come right out. Then take the aluminum tracks out ( screws set in pockets). The pocket on the spring side is deep�..you need to measure this type window slightly more in width. Usually a 28� wide window I make 28 �� so it will set in that pocket a little better�.and you still have to stuff some insulation there. Page 2 7.Now set your new window in the frame. Put it tight against either the inside or outside stop, whichever you didn�t take off. Level, make sure the new window is square, then use the four screws that came with it to install. If your windows are tall, I run another screw in the side jamb ABOVE the travel point of the sash shoe on the inside track to hold the jamb securely where you want it. Don�t bother using the jamb adjusters that come with them, most are junk. 8.Run bead around the outside on sides and top. Stuff some fiberglass insulation under the bottom where the new window is flat and the wood sill slopes away. Then you can slip the sill extension piece ( that flat pc with a little lip that came with the window) onto the bottom of the window to fill that gap, and install a couple of wood strips to replace the stop you cut off. Caulk and paint as needed�.OR 9.I make aluminum trim to cover all the outside wood. If you can rent a sheet metal brake, buy some aluminum trim coil and do the same. This is a deal where pictures would be worth a zillion words�..maybe I�ll set up a website one day to show you how. This finish work is what separates the amateur work from the pro work.
The windows you are looking at likely have terrible reviews because you are likely looking at the cheapest bottom of the barrel window. Any window company will have good, better, best. So you get what you pay for. You can't get champagne on a beer budget. That being said, there are hundreds of windows out there... it's hard to recommend just one.
All you need to do is remove the vinyl siding and j-channel around your existing window, and you can replace it with the 200 series window. New construction windows have a nailing flange that gets nailed to the house. Removing your siding will enable you to pull the nails out of the existing window's nailing flange, and then you can reinstall a new window in the same manner. Measure between the j-channels side to side and top to bottom to get the overall size of the unit you require. The term replacement windows is a phrase that is used loosely to refer to a window with NO flange that can be inserted INSIDE an existing window, not the preferable way to go in your case.
Big box means Lowes or HD. If you are talking about vinyl replacement windows, you should avoid both brands. They may be labeled with Andersen or Pella, but they are cheap brands that were purchased by the big names to get in on a lucrative market, and sell thru the big home improvement retailers. Andersen (true Andersen) replacement windows are similar to their 400 and Woodright series new construction windows. Clad exterior, wood interior, many glass and hardware options. High quality but you will definitly pay high prices as well. JustBill is not a fan of Pella products IIRC, and neither am I. Not to put words in his mouth, but I think I'm on here more than he is. He's a busy guy. He can probably give you some recommendations later. What area of the country are you in? Some very good brands are only available regionally, and sometimes only to contractors. From a partial list of distributors, it looks like Ellison is east coast or maybe Mid-atlantic? Many times stopping by a distributor of multiple brands can be helpful. They may not sell to you, but they may share information on quality, return rates, delivery times, etc.
OK, those 2 above are my standard clip and pastes Now on your casements.....bit more difficult.....depends on the manufacturer. If you have Andersens, they usually ( depending on the age ) have a nail on stop moulding. You can simply pull the stop off......it's the stepped moulding that the screen sets in and also covers the crank gear.......it's just nailed on. Then remove the crank hardware and sash, along with the hinges the sash pivot on, and you have a nice clean opeing for your vinyl window and leave the old frame in place. You just measure that inside opening and order a window to fit. BUT some manufacturers use a one pc moulded frame and step jamb. These involve a WHOLE lot of wood chisel work. You first have to decide WHICH step you're gonna chisel too.....I can't tell you what I'd do with actually seeing the window.....or a digital picture closeup if you can manage that......you have to chisel carefully to avoid damaging the whole frame, and quite frankly, they are a real pain. Your double hungs SHOULD be a fairly standard size for that age house. Measure some according to what I posted above and I'll confirm what size you need to order. IF you have some more specific questions, fire away.
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