Depending on the size of the window, the framing above needs extra support. Double vertical 2x4 plate may be adequte. Your PT frame can be screwed with tapcons or shot with power nails, and use the appropriate construction adhesive(Liquid Nails for wood/cement) Whether or not your window has a nailing fin will determine where the PT frame is mounted. The window should be roughly flush with the outside wall, but can be flush with the inside wall for esthetics. Once mounted, there will likely be an air space around the window, fill with DAP foam or a NON-expanding urethane foam.
Hang the door with the side the door opens towards flush with the face of the drywall. Then rip extensions whatever size is needed. Attach the extensions to the stud with nails using shims to keep it paralell to the jamb, (no dowels) leaving about 1/8 reveal between the new extension and the face of the original jamb. I assume when you say the jamb has a reveal you mean bevel. If you want you can plane off the bevel to make your jamb flat, but it is not neccessary. This procedure is done all the time and looks and works just fine.
Quote: Originally Posted by 2000 On the other hand I wouldn't spend the time nor money widening jambs if they will be stained. Pine jambs are too cheap (inexpensive), and hanging a door is too easy, to waste time and money ?making do?. And why would you extend the face side in the first place. Wider jambs are available. Not sure how this helps me since it is a prehung door and if the jamb was extended on the opening side, the lockset would strike the jamb besides the fact it would not look very nice. Also, I did mention I would like to avoid taking the doors back If you are recommending that I fabricate my own jambs, that is not an option since my finish carpentry skills brought me here in the first place.
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